The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, constructed of black or midnight blue wool, which may be faced with either grosgrain (ribbed silk) or satin. The most traditional lapel type is the peaked lapel, derived from its tailcoat predecessor; the shawl collar (with rounded lapels) is used also. Currently, both tuxedo jacket styles can be either single- or double-breasted. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, is an American innovation, and is not universally considered correct. The traditional single-breasted coat has a single-button closure, with two-button variants sometimes seen; jackets incorporating more buttons are fashion fads.
A tuxedo jacket falls into one of these categories:
- Single-breasted: One strip of buttons, from one to four, down the front. The more buttons, the more slimming the jacket because the eye moves upward, rather than fixating on the gut.
- Double-breasted: Two strips of buttons, with two to six buttons down the front. It's more formal, and more for the older set, like your dad.
- Mandarin Nehru jacket or Mao jackets - This jacket features a stand-up collar with no lapel and is worn with a mandarin-collar shirt. While this style is a little late 90s, it does provide a sneaky way to avoid wearing a tie.
Full dress or tailcoat - These jackets actually have tails, with a two- to six-button front. These are generally worn at ultra-formal soirees and mostly are reserved for guys with big egos and big bank accounts.
Notched lapel - This lapel features a triangular indention where the lapel joins the collar. It's the least formal lapel style.
Shawl collar - This is a smooth, rounded lapel with no notch.
- Peaked lapel - This broad, V-shaped lapel points up and out just below the collar line.
|â€¢ Peak lapel - This is a wider lapel that comes to a peak - just like most double breasted suits.|
|â€¢ Notch lapel - This is the same type of lapel line that a single breasted suit has.|
|â€¢ Shawl collar - this is a long, continuous lapel line, somewhat rounded in shape.|
|â€¢ Single breasted - The most popular style, simple, clean and neat.|
|â€¢ Double breasted - This fashion style features an overlapping coat with 2 rows of buttons which button to the side, rather than down the center of the coat.|
A great idea in men's formal wear is Tuxedo separates which consist of a right size tuxedo jacket matched to the right size formal men's pants to make a perfect fit. You get to pick and choose a tuxedo jacket.
Which Tuxedo Jacket style is most traditional?
The most traditional tuxedo style is the single-breasted, 1-button, peak lapel tuxedo. This is where tuxedo fashions started. While this is the most traditional, it is not the most popular. The 1-button notch lapel tuxedo wins that category hands down. Nonetheless, any of the 1-button single breasted styles will last you for years to come. These styles are evergreens - always in fashion. Sure, the lapel width may fluctuate over the years, but these styles are the classics.
Wearing a suit that fits right will make you feel more comfortable and will only cut down on your perspiration. Plus, the undeniable fact that you'll look great. Apart from that, you can also go for the style that you choose to suit your body type. Usually, a double-breasted jacket looks best on someone who is slender and tall to medium height and build. The shoulders then can be padded more than normal and the waist taken in to a comfortable extent to make the body seem more muscular.